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Hi! In an attempt to avoid flicker, I read an article in stopmotionpro, which says:

"The lenses that are supplied with modern DSLRs use automatic iris. When you click the shutter release, the lens iris 'stops down', the shutter opens, after the set exposure time, the shutter closes and the lens iris opens up again. Unfortunately the lens does not 'stop down' to exactly the same place each time you press the shutter. It causes an annoying flicker.
To solve this problem, the best solution is to use older style manual iris lenses, not to use the lenses that usually come bundled with the new DSLR cameras."

So, I have a camera Canon Eos Rebel Xs 1000d, and I want to buy an adapter lens eos for a 45mm MINOLTA MD Rokkor 1:2. But, there are two kinds of adapters:

- With electronic focus confirmation
- No focus confirmation

To avoid flickering, I can use any of this adapters? Or should I buy without focus confirmation?

Thank you!
Guillermo.

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I believe this is the type adapter that you will need: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-MD-MC-Lens-to-CANON-EOS-60D-600D-10...

I would not be concerned about electronic focus confirmation. With stop motion, you will always be focusing manually.

Ok. Thank you. The problem is that in my country it is dificult to obtain the adapter without focus confirmation. So, it is the same an adapter with focus confirmation that other adaptor with out a focos confirmation? Can the focus confirmation cause flicker?

Man, I knew this stuff a year or two ago, when I was in deep research mode, but it's dropped out of my brain to make room for new stuff. 

I *think* it will be fine - as I recall, a focus confirmation chip doesn't allow the camera to control focus or iris, but only allows a contact so it can tell you if you're in focus or not. But then I was never looking at any auto-focus lenses, only manual, so if that's an auto-focus lens then I'm not sure what it will do. And I can't tell what kind of lens it is - I pasted the name in and it comes up with a whole wide range of different lenses. 

The idea really is to get an adapter to let you use manual lenses - that way there's no way the camera can get control and mess things up. But I know if you use an auto-focus/auto-iris lens with a non-chip adapter it still isolates it so the camera can't control it. I believe there are also full-contact adapters, to let you use an auto lens on a different brand camera and allow full camera control over the lens. But with the focus confirm chip I *believe* you don't have to worry about it allowing camera control. 

Of course alternately you could simply partially unscrew the lens - just far enough to break electronic contact through the little metal tabs on the back of the lens. Then it becomes a manual lens, assuming it actually has manual focus and iris function, achieved by turning the rings on the lens barrel. And if the lens doesn't have those rings then it's useless anyway except for using in full auto mode. You need either an older manual lens or a 'hybrid' lens that allows both manual and auto control. 

Thanks! I finally bought the adapter without focus confirmation. Soon I will be back here to discuss the results.

Strider said:

Man, I knew this stuff a year or two ago, when I was in deep research mode, but it's dropped out of my brain to make room for new stuff. 

I *think* it will be fine - as I recall, a focus confirmation chip doesn't allow the camera to control focus or iris, but only allows a contact so it can tell you if you're in focus or not. But then I was never looking at any auto-focus lenses, only manual, so if that's an auto-focus lens then I'm not sure what it will do. And I can't tell what kind of lens it is - I pasted the name in and it comes up with a whole wide range of different lenses. 

The idea really is to get an adapter to let you use manual lenses - that way there's no way the camera can get control and mess things up. But I know if you use an auto-focus/auto-iris lens with a non-chip adapter it still isolates it so the camera can't control it. I believe there are also full-contact adapters, to let you use an auto lens on a different brand camera and allow full camera control over the lens. But with the focus confirm chip I *believe* you don't have to worry about it allowing camera control. 

Of course alternately you could simply partially unscrew the lens - just far enough to break electronic contact through the little metal tabs on the back of the lens. Then it becomes a manual lens, assuming it actually has manual focus and iris function, achieved by turning the rings on the lens barrel. And if the lens doesn't have those rings then it's useless anyway except for using in full auto mode. You need either an older manual lens or a 'hybrid' lens that allows both manual and auto control. 

I use Nikon and Olympus manual lenses on my Canon, with very simple adaptors with no focus confirmation.  They cost less than $20 - in fact around $12 last time I looked.  If you find them on eBay, they ship directly from China, usually with shipping included in the price.   They isolate the lens so it does not open up between taking shots.  And of course there is no electronic connection so all the lens settings are done by you, not the camera, and stay where you put them.

You need to have a lens with an aperture ring on the lens barrel so you can set the f-stop.  It will also have a focus ring.  If it is auto focus you must be able to switch it to manual - I just avoid auto focus all together.  (For still photos too, first thing I do with a new camera is switch off auto focus, and by now I wouldn't know how to turn it on if I ever wanted to. )

The adapters that I found on Ebay for Guille's Minolta lens contain a glass optic. This probably precludes any price under $20. I have an old Minolta screw mount lens and for my Canon camera it does require an adapter with glass. A note to Guille: you will probably need to stop down your camera to f8 or more to get a good pic with your camera/lens combination because of the glass in the adapter.  To avoid adapters with glass, I bought a couple of manual Nikon lenses. And, like Nick said, they are cheap...I think about $12.  I did notice that Gulle's lens does have the f-stop on the barrel and focus ring because it is a manual lens.

Thank you both. Today I'll buy the adapter, do the tests and publish in the forum.

From my research I decided to stay away from any adapters with glass optics in them. It degrades the image significantly from everything I read, and darkens it quite a bit too. I think it can lower your exposure by 1 or 2 stops.

Guille already has the Minolta lens and from what I have read it is a good lens.  I believe he can get acceptable results, not optimal, but still good with his lens and glass adapter. I bought a glass adapter to try my old Canon FD lenses on the Canon 40D.  I did a test comparison with Canon FD lens + adapter and a Nikon lens. Here are the results:

https://api.ning.com/files/SD3B3QVX8yo6Gzqf3OYCQYnaW6I7ETjzLeuR8LO4...*cIeJBYTPhsy80YX4WPzwit/image1.jpg

_

http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2968776945?profi...

I think you will find it a bit difficult to tell which is the Canon FD lens + glass adapter and a Nikon lens. For more on this subject, I suggest reading:

http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/forum/topics/canon-fd-to-ef-moun...

Whenever you use an adapter with glass, you need to stop down the lens a bit more than you would  with a lens and no glass adapter. That is why I recommended starting at F8. Acceptable results might be had at F5.6. This would require some testing. But, if you just want to put the lens on the camera and use it, then I say use F8, F11,F16 and etc. Of course, if Guille wants the very best results, he should get Nikon lenses. If he is just getting into stop motion and does not have a lot of money to spend, then buying the adapter and using it with the lens he has is a good option.

Oh I remember that thread - that was you who posted the pics taken with the adapter that had a glass element in it? Yeah, as I recall they really did look pretty darn good (too lazy to click the link now lol). Thanks for reminding me - pictures are worth a thousand words in a case like this. 

Yes, Strider, I did those test pics. I did do a side by side pic, picking a portion of each image. Here is the link: https://api.ning.com/files/-CPoKrN59Kq31277OuhZz2714jSgt*xxFJTzcxghrehPF6it8F9yqopJh300EFiCIavjU1VmiPXnocvfBZV9X*UExOxyJrYH/comparison.jpg

_

It is difficult to tell  which is the Nikon lens and which is the Canon FD with glass adapter. Ethan took a guess and got it wrong.

_

I am not advocating that people doing stop motion use glass adapters. I am just saying that if someone is on a tight budget they can get acceptable results for a beginner. Of course, as one progresses in stop motion they should move on to lens/adapter combinations where the adapter has no glass. We have probably already given Guille too much information.

Thanks, as I said earlier I bought the adapter for use with a manual lens. It did not work. I mean, the flickering was not reduced at all. Today I'll upload some videos to show the testing.
I do not think it's a problem of the adapter, or the lens. In fact, I tried to remove the automatic lens slightly, to prevent electronic contact. The camera and lens worked perfect, but the flicker continues.
  I think the problem is the voltage variation. But this is a topic for another post. Thanks for the suggestions, the results show tonight to contribute something to this topic.

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