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Does anybody know where I can obtain instructions on how to build from scratch, rack and pinion winders.  I know where to get the bars and the gear to fit.  But I also would like to construct my own manual winder.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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You could start by having a look at the video I made of assembling a 3D printed winder. It will show you the inner workings.

https://youtu.be/Yc3FOks2iqE

Thank You Sir,

I've been thinking of getting a 3d printer, but have no idea on what is a good one that can do the type of printing as far as rigs and maybe even puppet parts.  I will be looking closely at your videos.  Again Thank You,

Mike

Simon Tytherleigh said:

You could start by having a look at the video I made of assembling a 3D printed winder. It will show you the inner workings.

https://youtu.be/Yc3FOks2iqE

My printer is the Ender 3 pro, one of the most basic types. It has been perfectly adequate for creating props, set elements winders and even a large motion control rig.

If you haven't got a printer, maybe you know someone who does and could print off the winders for you?

There is a V2 of the DIYnder that I am currently testing, and will do a video on that soon. It has some improvements over the v1.

Simon, I made the jump and got the Ender 3 v2.  I also got your v2 winder stl.  Haven't printed it yet.  How long will it take, I assume I have to print each piece separately.  Any advice will be appreciated.  I will be using PLA.

Simon Tytherleigh said:

My printer is the Ender 3 pro, one of the most basic types. It has been perfectly adequate for creating props, set elements winders and even a large motion control rig.

If you haven't got a printer, maybe you know someone who does and could print off the winders for you?

There is a V2 of the DIYnder that I am currently testing, and will do a video on that soon. It has some improvements over the v1.

Hi Mike Great to hear you have bought a printer. Do make sure to join the Creality Ender 3 Facebook user group, which has thousands of members and where pretty much any problem with a printer you could imagine is discussed regularly. There is quite a learning curve as a beginner, but the first principle to observe is only to change something if it is wrong, not just for the sake of it. For a lot of people the factory set up works really nicely from the get go. I am using Cura as the slicer program, where you drop the .STL files into a virtual buildplate and then select the parameters for the extrusion. To start with you should use the standard Cura profiles, and/or have a good look at CHEP's YouTube videos, which are great for those starting out.

Do also pay close attention to the videos on constructing your printer. It is essential that the frame is set up square and solidly, also that the eccentric nuts are properly adjusted for the gantry and the y axis. Lastly, the most important thing is to get the bed levelled, as in parallel to the gantry, so th nozzle prints even across it. Again, CHEP provides a really useful bed levelling gcode, which you just run and check the bed height. I use it a lot. Also you need to be sure your print will stick, so the first layer is the most important. I clean my buildplate with soap and water and then wipe 90% alcohol on it. As I am printing PLA on a glas plate these days, I give it a light spray with hairspray. But if you are using the flexible build surface, you should not need that. If you find the corners of your prints lift, then get a cardboard box and put it round the printer to prevent draughts.... Anyway, lots to learn!

I should say that I am not the designer of the winders. It's a guy called Luke Bosshard, and I actually bought my printer because I wanted to print them! This was a year ago February, and it turned out he was looking for someone to beta test them, so I spent a lot of time helping to refine the design. The new one I have also been testing, and only a couple of days ago spotted some issues with tolerances on the main box part, which made it very difficult to insert the nuts. He has made some small alterations which have greatly improved it. I was actually in the process of making a video about it when I discovered the issue.

That said, I think these are very good winders for the low price (excluding the printer, for which I am sure you will find a myriad of uses!) Of course they are not as good as the metal ones, but they are cheap and that means one could have half a dozen for different uses around the set for the price of a single metal winder. And I think the v2 winders have made som good improvements on v1.

I am printing them out using a 0.4mm nozzle (standard one), with 0.2mm layer height (normal quality), and they are working well. I do not print the parts individually but group them, so for instance I would print the boxes and lids together as one print, the base parts as another, and the small parts as a third.  You just select them in Cura and arrange them on the virtual buildplate. I also print the gears and knobs together. Be aware that you may need to rotate the items in Cura until they lie flat on the plate. This is obvious for most items, but the Lock knob needs to be on its shaft, and needs support (which is where the slicer generates some lightweight  disposable structure to prevent an overhang from collapsing). This is not made clear in the manual.

As for time, I reckon it will take a couple of days to print all the parts. If you do them in groups then if there is a failure you have just lost that group. Certainly you could do them individually, but that would take a great deal more time, just because you would have to be heating up the plate and cleaning it every time (or at least wiping it down)

I print the items using a skirt for the larger ones that have a significant footprint, and are therefore less likely to break away. For the gears and smaller items I use a brim, which puts several passes of filament in a single layer around the items and increases the footprint and therefore stability.

The rack as it stands is too long for the Ender buildplate, but Luke has provided a rack design in several parts that can fit onto it. The M6 threaded rod makes this just as strong, and I like to use Plastic Weld to help reinforce it.

Anyway, I am sure you will have more questions, but this is a start. Hopefully your printer will work well right from new, but you will inevitably come across challenges. I was tremendously excited to print out the winders the first time, and the thrill of making something new is still there!

Hi Mike Do hang fire on printing out the winders just for now, as there are a couple of small glitches that I have identified, which will require Luke to adjust a few tolerances. This is happening right now (6th July 2021) and should be sorted in a day or so. He will produce some updated files for a couple of the parts.

In any case if you run into issues at any stage, just contact me.

I hope Luke gets it worked out. I already bought my nuts and bolts and was ready to start printing on my Makerbot 2. I'll keep checking Mymini Factory for the purchase button to open up.

Simon Tytherleigh said:

Hi Mike Do hang fire on printing out the winders just for now, as there are a couple of small glitches that I have identified, which will require Luke to adjust a few tolerances. This is happening right now (6th July 2021) and should be sorted in a day or so. He will produce some updated files for a couple of the parts.

In any case if you run into issues at any stage, just contact me.

Hi Steve  It is very minor tweaks, nothing critical. Things like reducing the hole diameter for the drive gear by less than 0.5mm to get it perfectly centred. Some of the pockets for the M3 nuts were a fraction small when I printed the box out on my machine. That sort of thing.

I have put one box together, and I can tell you this is a neat little winder. The v1 was good, but this is better. 

I will get a video done to show the assembly, so it should be straightforward.

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