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I've read that LED and incandescent lights are best for stop motion as they don't cause flicker. However, any of the household LED bulbs I've bought do indeed cause flicker. Are there particular types that don't do this? I would like to use some lamps I have as lighting sources rather than buy any LED panel lights at the moment, and incandescent bulbs are becoming hard to find and generate so much heat.

Thanks

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James, Camera shop guy is sort-of wrong, at least about the Canon cameras.  Exporting video from Dragonframe is mainly for a preview version, not your final high quality film.

For animation, for the final product, I get the full still photo resolution of my camera (Canon EOS 7d).  That is because Dragonframe captures the still image, not video. And that means, also, it can work with less light by taking longer exposures like 1 second.  With my older 40d, it doesn't even take video, only stills, but it works fine with Dragonframe.

That is not talking about the Live View image, which is a low res video.  The Live View is where the mirrorless R and RP are great, they can have firmware installed to get a larger live view image so you can see small moves in your animation better.  But the final footage will still be the still photos at full resolution, 24 megapixels I think it was, much bigger and not subject to the compression of video footage.

I don't export video from Dragonframe, so it doesn't get compressed or reduced in size.  I close DF when I have finished animating the shot.  Then I open TV Paint or After Effects, and import the full size images (5184 x 3456 pixels from the 7d) from the folder where DF put them.  They might be Cr2 Canon RAW images, which get adjusted and converted before they can be worked on in AE, or they might be Large Fine Jpegs.  I do any green screen keying or rig removal in the large size, before reducing and cropping to 1920 x 1080.  Sometimes I keep them large, so I can zoom in or pan around and still have HD resolution.  The full size images are still safe in their original folder in case I want to go back to them.  So, my final movie is smaller, 1080 HD, but you could finish it at 4k instead if you wanted to.  You can save an uncompressed master copy, or settle for Apple Pro Res HQ as I do if your computer is not the fastest or most up-to-date.  Ultimately, your movie will get compressed on Youtube or DVD or most formats, but not your master copy, and not at the point where you go from Dragonframe to post-production software. 

Stop Motion Studio, which I have tested on an iPhone and iPad, is different.  It does not use the still photo function, it uses the video.  Even though the phones and tablets can take fairly high res stills, it does not use those.     So the animation from SMM is compressed video quality right from the start.  It can't take long exposures because the exposure time for video is limited to part of the 1/24th or 1/30th of a second time for each frame, so you need brighter lights to get the best out of the phone camera.  If the light is low, it will have to use electronic gain to try to compensate, and will get grainy, just like the Live View does on the still cameras. 

---------

About lights - these spots I am looking at are cheap alternatives.  They don't have the high quality, accurate colour temperature that Simon has been talking about, since they are made for stage and disco, not video work.  I just ordered another, 12 watt cheapie spot to see how it looks.  Also called white, I hope it is just a bit bluish, not purple.  I will report back when I get it.  It should be brighter, so if I have to put stronger gels on it to correct it, I should still get a reasonable amount of light out of it.    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264537851103?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkc...

Hey Nick, Thanks so much for explaining all that stuff about exporting the RAW images.. I still need to learn to do this, but I don't have access to that software you use at the moment.. I just export it as .mp4 I assumed that was the HD footage.. I didn't realise this...

and in regards to possibly purchasing the eos r or rp - what size monitor would I need to view the increased live view images?  I got an LG 28" at the moment, connected to my MacBook, mirror the display or use as a separate monitor.. is this big enough? and does it have to be a and special kind of quality of monitor to view the high res images from the increased live view?  

what's your view on grey imports.. a friend was telling me to order off t-dimension.com or camerainthepost.com - he's a photographer, he's into filming surfers and wildlife stills.. but he's had lots of positive experience of ordering off these sites, he said you will save £££'s off prices you would normally pay online or in shops... and he's just told me about two other types of camera now which are not full frame.. one uses

Micro Four Thirds
Sensor Type 4/3‘‘ Live MOS sensor

https://www.camerainthepost.com/Cameras/Olympus/Olympus+OM-D+E-M1X+...

and the one uses.. APS-C  CMOS

https://www.camerainthepost.com/Cameras/Fujifilm/FUJIFILM+X-T4+Mirr...

yeah I checked your link for the lights, they would be great if they work...  I did order some kind of light like this.. I can't find the details where I ordered it from but it was causing flicker effect on DF.. will these lights you ordering cause flicker?? 

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