After much searching in regards to building motion control rigs, I found this site and message board.
I'm slightly overwhelmed by the information but I'm hoping that I can get some help from yourselves.
As I mentioned in my introductory post, I'm currently in the process of setting up a post company. It's taking a while, but I want to have a motion control setup suitable for shooting elements for set extensions and models.
It will be a motorised tracked system with a boom, and a head with 6 axes. Attached to a synchronised model mount.
I have the design ideas, but I need help with yer actual designing and finessing.
It also has to be able to support heavy cameras. I was thinking of either the Ursa Mini Pro 12K or the Pocket Cinema Camera 6K.
I don't have a problem with the terms. Just curious as o how the axis is different from pan and tilt axes. Is the centre of rotation located slmewher else? Can these axes not be eliminated by making movements that combine the other axes?
Julian Smith said:
I have exchanged a few messages with a chap who works at ILM and he gave those terms for the model mount. He used those terms
That sounds very interesting. Essentially you need to have extra axes that can be simultaneously controlled. This is why I am badgering on about yaw and pitch, because if you eliminate a couple of axes, that frees up th channels for the model rig.
Julian Smith said:
I’m hoping I can set up a model mount that synchronises to the rig
Those are the axes for the mount. Only ones required for that.
However I want to have the axes available for the main rig.
And thinking about it, ILM didn’t have automatic starting for the cameras back in the day
I wonder if you can help me with some Fusion 360 modelling?
I've found these two items online. I don't obviously want them to be slavishly recreated. I'm wondering, however, if you could help create new beefier versions.
With the camera head, it would need to be able to hold DSLR's and also the Ursa Mini Pro 12K, being able to be sturdy.
Also to be able to pan, tilt and roll. The centre cage is the roll element so it would need to have
Also the jib needs to be sturdy and be able to handle heavy loads.
I'd be most grateful.
sorry. I meant to add that the centre cage should have gears for rolling.
Well, the first picture does not look a million miles away from what I have just spent several months designing and building. Here is a pic of the prototype just slotted together and without motors, although the mounts have been printed already. Also the turntable is not yet made. The large gear is printing as I type...
The second pic with the roll cage, as you can see from my rig, is way more complex than I have gone for. Having said that, I have deliberately made the jib head in two pieces so the whole head can be detached and either used on a separate rig or replaced with something else, such as your roll cage.
Have a look at the FB group DIY Motion Control, where a chap called Jimmy Reynolds has posted a video of his roll cage, which he has made in aluminium.
He talks of swapping out the plastic parts for metal, so is clearly going for something pretty beefy.
I don't know that I have a great deal of time to spare for designing a roll cage for you, but will be happy to have a look at what you have done. My experience with PETG is that it needs to be pretty solid and triangulated in any axis where it is not intended to flex at all. This makes it quite a challenge for printing, as you can imagine.
Looks like we are definitely on the same page!
Thank you. I’ll look at that group.
The track is made from 1 3/4" square aluminium tubing 10 swg, which is available in up to 5 metre lengths. The track supports can be placed anywhere along the rails, with the belt connected to the end ones, which hold the motor and idler.
The dolly is 385mm square, with a 295mm rotating platform on top (not in the pic!) to which the tower is attached. This has 24 12mm bearings on acetal sheets with a cage to hold them in place. Rotation motor is at the base of the tower, and there are adjustable hold-downs around the frame perimeter (so the whole thing does not tip off its axis! There are also some lower bearings on the track for the same purpose.)
The jib is controlled by a leadscrew, on the back end, not visible here. This leaves the front clear for overhanging sets. At the moment the arm extends 850 forward from the fulcrum and 400 back, although this just reflects that I simply cut a piece of 2500 in half. My colleague in Bristol wants a smaller arm, although I thin this is about right. The beauty of this design is that the arm can be whatever length you like (within reason!). The head is counterbalanced by gym weights at the back.